Downtown Palm Springs revolves around North Palm Canyon Drive; many art galleries, souvenir shops, and restaurants are here, along with a couple of large-scale hotels and shopping centers. This wide, one-way boulevard is designed for pedestrians, with many businesses set back from the street -- don't be shy about poking around the little courtyards you'll encounter. On Thursday night from 6 to 10pm, the blocks between Amado and Baristo roads are transformed into VillageFest, a town street-fair. Handicrafts vendors and aromatic food booths compete for your attention with wacky street performers and even wackier locals shopping at the mouthwatering fresh-produce stalls.

The northern section of Palm Canyon is becoming known for collectibles and is being touted as the Antique and Heritage Gallery District. Check out John's Resale Furnishings, 891 N. Palm Canyon Dr. (tel. 760/416-8876), for a glorious collection of midcentury modern furnishings; Bandini Johnson Gallery, 895 N. Palm Canyon Dr. (tel. 760/323-7805), a cramped warren of eclectic treasures; and the Antiques Center, 798 N. Palm Canyon Dr. (tel. 760/323-4443), a discriminating mall-style store whose 35 dealers display wares ranging from vintage linens to handmade African crafts to prized Bakelite jewelry.

Down in Palm Desert lies the delicious excess of El Paseo, a cornucopia of high-rent boutiques, salons, and upscale eateries reminiscent of Rodeo Drive in Beverly Hills, along with over a dozen major shopping malls.

Factory-outlet shopping is 20 minutes away in Cabazon.